Monte Tronador, Day 4 (Feb 9th)

Our bus was to pick us up at 11am, and in the morning, it started to rain again. I started packing away my stuff while still in the tent, not an easy task considering that my tent is very small and that this expedition involves a ton of gear and food. I put everything I could in my big pack, then also filled the smaller one. Both of those were going to go on the horses, and we'd be going up with just water, some warmer clothes, and anything that could hurt the horses (such as ice picks). We also left some stuff that would be staying below, such as any gear that we had more than was necessary of, which we'd manage to determine during the two previous days. For me, that meant my walking ice pick, some carabiners, a pair of crampons. I also left a change of clothes for the return. I was pretty sure I'd appreciate that another 6 days down the road. And, of course, I left my running gear. I'd brought it hoping to be able to run at this low camp, since there was a road. The two things that stopped me were the fact that I couldn't wash (with the weather, getting in the freezing river with no sun to warm me up after was not at all interesting to me) and also the days being really long and tiring, allowing little time or energy for running before or after.

Everyone left the tent for last, hoping that it would stop raining. It poured even harder, and we had to put them away soaking wet. Apart from the fact that this is aggravating and not good for them, it makes them a great deal heavier to carry. The bus arrived at 11h20 and found us huddling under the trees, wet and miserable. We brought the gear in, soaking the seats and floor. It was only about 15 minutes to Pampa Linda, where we left the big bags with the horses (can you imagine the smell of wet bags on a horse?), and went in to the refugio to warm up with hot chocolates and have a quick lunch. It stopped raining then, the sun came out, and we managed to start the climb up in good weather, with a beautiful view of Monte Tronador, very welcome sight!

The first 4 hours were easy. It's a hefty climb (1200 meters above where we were) and therefore tiring, but an easy trail through a forest that protected us from the wind, and we went up in small groups, passing one another when anyone took breaks, laughing and chatting. But then we got to the part I dreaded; the part that was impossible for the horses (it would have been fine for mules, but there are none here), where we had to pick everything up ourselves. I was pretty sure I wouldn't be able to manage two big bags weighing a good 35kg together over the rocky terrain.

I was right. I'd gone 5 minutes when I put my smaller bag down and decided to come back for it later. But the guys wouldn't let me. Josias took my bag and tried the impossible; carrying 3 bags over rocky terrain. He laughed, saying it was training anyway (he is a firefighter) but then, the bags prevented us from seeing where we put our feet, and it got tiresome really quickly. Ricardo and Emerson came to the rescue. They each had much huger big bags than I, so they had no little one, and they shared one among themselves, carrying it for a bit then giving it over when they got tired.

And tired, we got that very quickly! This part is very exposed, out of the forest and very windy, a great deal colder (it actually started to snow lightly as we set out) and very rocky, often necessitating the use of hands for firm grasps. We were gasping in no time, and I, knowing it would get worse just before reaching the refugio, was already mentally drained. Just my own big load was enough to have me cringing. I kept telling the guys not to worry, to just leave my bag, I'd come back for it. But they wouldn't hear of it and 19h00 saw us stagger unto the flatter area where the small refugio is situated, and I rushed in to warm up. I was only wearing a light shirt (it was too warm, with that heavy load, for more, but as soon as I stopped I froze) and wanted to change.

A hot chocolate and quick snack that Josias and I had together did wonders to restore body heat and also energy, and before it could get dark, I went to set up my tent in the spot that Rodrigo and Xuxa had picked close to their own. I thought if I didn't do it now, I wouldn't. Apart from us 3, everyone decided to sleep in the refugio that night and set up the next day. It was tempting but...

The tent was soaking wet and the most amazing thing occurred as I was setting it up; it froze in less than a minute because of how cold it was, and then with a vigorous shake, became completely dry. Great!! A wet tent is a dreadful thing to look forward to. But the rocky ground prevented the stakes from going in, despite my having an ice tool with a hammerhead, and so setting thing up was slow as it required maneuvering a lot of rocks to use instead of stakes, and making sure everything was wind proof. Which, in such an exposed area, means practically bomb proof! I was very thankful for taking this much care later on. My tent stayed pretty much put through the wicked wind that blasted everything in the next few days.

Eating was wonderful and restorative. Rodrigo, Xuxa and I ate in their tent. Everyone was pooped. This climb up was the only part that I'd been scared of, however, and having reached the top, I knew the rest would be fine, I'd manage. I should be able to eat through all of 5 days' worth of food, which would mean I could handle my own stuff for the return.

I went back to the refugio before going to bed and chatted with other group members. I hardly took any pictures today so will have to wait for somebody else's before I put any up. This is the only nice one:

With Argentine Sergio, Josias and Victor


Getting in my warm bag in that cold weather was wonderful, and I am pretty sure I heard nothing that night!